Colca Canyon, Peru

We set off to do a 3 day hike down about and up Colca Canyon. The canyon is thought to be the second deepest Canyon in the world, the deepest being nearby.

We woke at 2:30 a.m that morning to catch an early bus. After 5 hours on the bus we got off at Cruz del Condor, a viewing location for the majestic bird. The spot was touristy. Women selling trinkets and overpriced drinks decorated the site, while the condors were few. We spotted only a single condor from a far distance., it could have been mistaken for a crow.

From Cruz del Condor we began our hike, walking down a dirt road to the final condor look-out point. From here we got a closer view of the condor's beauty. We searched for the trail that would lead us to the small town of Tepay, but do to the lack of trail markings we somehow missed the trail and continued on to the spot that we were initally planning on ending, the town of Cabanaconde. That intial walk was 14km. We ate lunch with a German couple in Cabanaconde then decided to head down the 1000 meters to the bottom of the canyon. The hike down was long and taxing. The trail is dry and dusty, it rarely rains in this region. We took 3 or 4 hours to get down and both of us had shaky legs for the last bit. Downhill's are always a bit scary for me, especially while trekking on the edge over loose rocks.

Finally we reached the first town at the bottom, called the Oasis. The oasis was a surprising patch of green within the arid canyon. A few palm trees along with a couple different straw-hut sleeping options populated the canyon floor. Each of the hostel companies also had a appetizing blue pool to offer. We asked for our reserved hut and quickly found out that it was just the basics. A straw hut, dusty dirt floor, raised bed, no electricity, but quite a few fines growing in.
As Josh likes to say, "they spared no expenses."

Even though the temperature was cool and dropping changed into our swimsuits, well boxer shorts for Josh and hopped in the pool. The pool was cold and the bottom slimy, but we were glad to wash some dust off. We quickly dried and dressed, then bought a beer to share in reward. We debated going further through the canyon the next day, but chose against it over that beer. Everything that is brought down into the canyon is done so on the back of a mule. Prices are high, the dust is thick and the spiders in that hut and lack of hygiene in the entire area is less than pleasant. (I much prefer camping in a tent and peeing in the woods than sleeping in a bed with dirty sheets and using an equally yucky toilet.)

That night I had a terrible throbbing migraine, probably dehydration. We missed our 2 am ipod alarms, finally pulled out of bed at around 9. I inquired about our promised free breakfast after we packed up. We got the coffee we were craving and then a richly fried something, a bit heavy for the hike we had ahead.

We ascended the canyon in remarkable time for us (me!) considering the long hike we did the previous day and that we were doing it during the hottest moments of the day. We made it up 1000 meters in 4 hours, only passed by caravans of donkeys.

Once atop we found a nice hotel on the first street we walked down. We spend the night in Cabanaconda, needing a shower and a rest before the 6 hour ride back to Arequipa. We found a little place for lunch, which unfortunately for Josh turned out to be raw chicken. While the cook was preparing our food her baby started to cry. She handed her daughter over to us while she cooked to keep her tears astray, that redeemed her lack of cooking abilities in my eyes!

Pueblo Paron

Because we were unable to do the Santa Cruz trek, we thought we´d trek to Laguna de Paron. The town of Pueblo Paron consists of a tiny church, maybe 4 buildings and a cement soccer field. By taxi it took us about 45minutes of switchbacks up the mountain to reach the pueblo.

Our two Lonely Planet Guide´s, one for trekking and the other deticated to Peru had differing estimates of the time the hike would take. One estimated 4 hours, the other 6. Before departing, Josh asked the taxi driver what time the final collectivo headed down the mountain for Caraz. He gave us an answer of 2:30, over the rest of the day we heard a variety of answers, but none later than 2:30. Thus we knew that if we didn´t want to spend Christmas Eve on the cement soccer field, we better be back to Paron by that time.

We hiked up, and up. Nature is gorgeous in this area of Peru. Lush green mountains, topped with sheer rock and snowy peaks. Eucalyptus trees grow throughout the valley offering a fresh, invigorating scent. White water rushed furiously along side of the trail. The air is pure, untainted by the few cars that travel all the way to the Laguna.

After a little over 3 hours of hiking up, we decided it was best to turn around in hopes of catching the collectivo back to Caraz. I feel bad, knowing that Josh wanted to see the Laguna even more than I, wishing I wasn´t so slow, holding him back. Anyhow, we conquered the downhill with speed and made it to Pueblo Paron at a little past noon. We lay in the grass aside the road hoping for the 1pm colective that a hiker had assured us would come. At 1:40 we started to consider walking down from that point. At 2 the collectivo in all it´s glory arrived.

The collectivo- an elongated Aerostar van with semi functioning slide-door and essential rack on top. We were the first 2 in the van, foolishly thinking we would be the only customers for the downhill. After every hairpin turn or before a group of riders would pile in, each with their 40lb sack of vegetables to load atop. Before we made it half-way down the mountain we had 23 people packed into this 14 passenger van. Soon enough we had 25 passengers inside, 5 on the roof. Let there be no question that this was not a conversion van or even a standard width van by U.S. standards. Nor do the people dress lightly for the ride. Each woman sports pants, atleast one large petticoat followed by a few select skirts, shirts, sweaters and of course a nice wide-brimmed decorative hat, not to forget they each sling a blanket holding something the size of a goat over their back.

A gal we met while hiking in Venezuela said that the best part of Peru is ¨the dress of the Andean women.¨ In my mind, she was just about right. The most amazing thing of Peru is the Andean Women. In every aspect they are lovely. Always with a smile they greet, always courteous. Their dress is bright, conservatively sweet and captivating. And their stregnth is hard to believe. Ladies older than my grandmothers lugging huge crates of chickens, gourds, children 3/4 thier own size. Windburnt cheeks and calloused hands do not keep these ladies from smiling, and I hope happiness.

Caraz

Currently we are in Caraz, a smaller town 1.5 hours from Huaraz with easy access to the Cordillera Blanca mountains. Our plan from this town was to do the Santa Cruz trek over 4 days. We bought a good map and have a detailed description of the hike, and felt comfortable doing it without a guide. We hit the local market bought 10 oranges, bananas for breakfast, loaf of bread, jam, pasta, sauce, tuna fish, oatmeal, gas for the stove, matches and enough water to get going. We packed our bags with the necesities-tent, stove, 2 sets of clothes, cold weather and rain proof gear, headlamps, sleeping bags, mats. Everything was ready to go. Then Josh asked ¨Where are my shoes¨ ........
¨oh no, ahh...I saw them under the bed at the last hotel in Cajamarca. I thought about saying something, but it was early in the morning, before nine and we didn´t have to leave until that night at 9...I thought you surely would have looked when you packed. ugg.¨

Thus we did not do the Santa Cruz Trek. The next day we headed to Huaraz and bought Josh his 3rd pair of shoes for the trip.

Josh's works...

Please Check out Josh's blog, as he gives a much more thorough (and less negative) account of our journeys. Also his picture website is great!

http://blogs.bootsnall.com/wyewurk
http://drinkinginflipflops.shutterfly.com

Road to Cajamarca

Josh wanted to travel from Chachapoyas to Cajamarca for the lovely mountain views. For me the twisty dirt roads up and down the Andeas are a motion-sick girls worst nightmare. I´ve become hooked on Dramamine, it takes care of the nasea splendidly as well as puts me to sleep for the entirety of most rides. Honestly, I don´t mind sleeping through the bus rides, they´re quite monotonous otherwise. Anyhow, for part of this ride I was awake.

First off, the bus drivers race down these mountains like a bat outa hell. Second, of course all the roads are dirt and are extremely uneaven. Third, the road is only wide enough for one car and Peru has never seen a gaurdrail. We fortunately got to sit in the front seat, and see all of the action. It was indeed a fortunate seat as the lady in the back vomitted all through the trip.

The ride was terrifying, flying around mountain edges, the driver laying on the horn...hoping to God that we didn´t smash into another car and tumble over the 100ft cliff. There were a couple close calls, when another car appeared around a corner and our driver (seemingly unexperienced) slammed on his breaks vearing toward the edge, with less than a 2 foot buffer from the canyon below. I wished I were sleeping, or atleast had some ativan.

We got to stop at one point at one of the moutain towns, no more than 2 mudbrick buildings and a few tents selling fruits. I used the toilet here and was pleasantly surprised that it was infact an actual toilet, no seat of course and they did charge a fee. Even so, this was a grand improvement over the last roadside toilet, which consisted of a green shack thick with flys and a hole to urinate in or around.

In the end the bus made it safely to Cajamarca and we found a tiny hotel room with a reasonable rate to stay in. We had some wonderful pizza that evening...but I must say I prefer mozzerella to the white cheese of South America when it comes to pizza.

Chachapoyas, almost Kuelap

After a long night bus ride we made it to a town called Chachapoyas (people of the clouds.) I was expecting a lovely town amid the mountains, Chacha wasn't quite that. The point of coming to this town was to see Kuelap, said to be one of the most impressive ruins 2nd only to Macchu Picchu. Obviously this leg of the journey is lead by Joshua, as my interest in rocks and ruins has rapidly depreciated the more I see them. (Incan's are rocking in their graves...I'm sorry, I've tried).

Right after the bus ride and a little breakfast, Josh took off to see some graves. I passed seeing the opportunity for a nap on a bed instead of a bus seat. Fortunately he's very generous in picture taking, so even I never missed a beat. Later that night we got a local dinner and went to bed for an early morning rise to see Kuelap.

Shortly after checking into a less expensive hotel room (the rank smell and clogged sink weren't worth the big bucks) we headed down to where the mini combi buses were supposedly located to get a ride toward the ruins. Either we missed the early combi, or they weren't running that day, after waiting on a corner for some time a guy offered to take us in a taxi. We waited around another 20minutes or so until the taxi was full then headed off to Tingo.

We were dropped off in Tingo, a town consisting of 2 building made of mud bricks. We bought some peanuts from a man vending out of his house and asked directions for the trail toward Kuelap. We were given some confusing instructions that changed according to who you asked. Finally we asked a police officer, he pointed and mumbled something, then mentioned that the guys across the road with the cement truck were headed up to the next town, Maria. The officer walked over to the two young guys running the truck and asked if we could hitch a ride. The guys said that the two of them were up front, and there wasn't room. The officer asked if we could ride on top of the truck or in the back. (Something you would hide from police at home). Sure enough there was room on top of the sacks of cement. The ride took about 3 hours uphill. Shaded by a tarp and atop nice soft bags and a dirty cushion that the boys through down for me, I fell asleep to the chug chugging of the cement truck.

Finally to the town of Maria, after a 3 hour taxi ride and similarly lengthed cement truck commute, we only had a 10km hike uphill to go. All to see rocks with my dear husband, uggh I wanted to scream. The walk was long and as we kept on, we noticed that there weren't too many passing cars. We saw one van crammed full of tourists on their way down, and one equally packed on their way up. We started to think that the prospects of getting home from this tiny town were looking slim. We hadn't seen a car in the town, nothing but a couple scraggly horses. Finally at the top we found a van that Josh begged to take us back when they were leaving. Unfortunately, the van's passengers were heading down from the ruins at about that time. We chose to forgo seeing the ruins of Kuelap that we had traveled all this way to see, in order to secure a ride back.

Huanchaco

On the coast north of Trujillo lies a small fishing village and summer time surfers playground of a town called Huanchaco. Josh and I stayed in a fantastic hostel, Naylamp. The room and bedding were clean, towels and soap were provided and wi-fi reached our room! We were on the second floor and had a lovely ocean view along with cable TV! Not only was the room a class above the hostels we had been staying in in Lima and Cusco, but the price was much lower.

Beyond the hostel walls, the beach was quite nice itself. The sand is a color of gray and the water a pleasant blue. It's no carribean, but hearing about the snowstorms that all of my family and friends are enduring, we have to room to complain! The first day we soaked up the sun. The next couple days we visited the local market and ate some fresh ceviche and watched some good cable tv, as the sun chose not to show it's face.

One thing that makes Huanchaco unique is the reed boat that are still made and used by the local fishermen. A picture of them is shown here.

Lima bean

Over the past few months of travel Josh and I have come to the conclusion that big city's are not for us. The little city's/towns are much sweeter. Between the pollution of Bogota, the potential crime in Quito, the craze of Cusco...we'd just rather spend our time on the beach, or in a laid back town. Even so, for a big city Lima isn't that bad.

Gloria, a dairy production company had a display of various cows all over the city. For me, those were a little more interesting than the usual statues we feel obligated to photograph. The cow featured here was found in the artsy park overlooking the ocean called Parque de Amor.

Lima is a great place for food lovers. It's nice to get away from the standard rice, fish and bean meal...you can find anything to quench your appetite in this capital city.

Family Arrives

Josh's parents, being the courageous adventure seeking people that they are flew down to Peru to meet us for a short vacation. They flew into Peru on Thanksgiving, but we started our trek toward Macchu Picchu the Friday after, we planned to meet up at the ruins. Fortunately we found them right at the gate, as planned. How great it was to see family, after 3 months it was so exciting and strange to see familiar faces in such an un-familiar place.

We spent that early morning venturing around Macchu Picchu and sharing travel experiences. I came down with the stomach bug that Josh had had the day before and had to make a break for it out of the ruins early. I rested while they enjoyed each others company around Aguas Callientes. They ate at a lovely French restarant called India Feliz. Gloria wasn't feeling up to eating that night either, so the next day we enjoyed a lovely lunch there as well.

We spent the next two days trotting about Cusco. We visited an old Incan fortress sitting on the mountainside above the city called Saqsaywayman. Gloria and I shopped for Christmas Presents while Josh and David played cribbage over Peruvian Beers. We ate at some lovely places. The picture above was taken at an upscale place titled Chi-Cha. And of course every time we walked down the street we were flooded by vendors, and I think we all began to lose patience.

Josh's parents are serious travelers, when they vacation they squeeze in all the sights in a limited amount of time. The day they left Cusco they flew down to Puno to see lake Titicaca, then somehow made it back to Lima and to Nazca in the same amount of time that Josh and I simply traveled to Nazca.

In Nazca we met up again, shared a late night drink when they got in and said goodnight till' morning when we would fly over the Nazca Lines. The next morning for breakfast Josh and I shared a bag full of fruit, bought off the street for about a dollar. Then we caught a cab to the hotel where Gloria and David were staying. From there we were picked up by their arranged transport van and headed to the Nazca airport. The Nazca Lines are various shapes made in the desert sand by moving dark sand away from light colored sand, is my understanding. They were created before the Incan Empire. We hopped into a tiny 5 seat airplane to view the lines. Our pilot was very courteous in making sure that everyone was able to see every etch in the sand. He whipped the plane from side to side, one wing strait up to the sky the other diving toward the sand. I was fortunate enough to sit beside the captain in the front seat. If I did not look at the design in the sand (do to extreme nausea) , he would be sure to tap me until I saw every last image. With the exception of Iron Man David we all left the plane sicker than dogs...whatever that phrase means.

After a lunch back at the hotel and a long bus ride back to Lima, we had to say some sad 'see you later's' to the parents. They had to get back, get ready for Christmas and of course have a big-mac. We'll miss you guys, but are so glad you were able to come down and share some of Peru with us!