Friday, March 5, 2010

Ushuaia

From Puerto Williams we bought a boat ticket to Ushuaia Argentina. That 'boat' ticket consited of a 1.5 hour car ride and a 15 minute raft ride across the Beagle Channel to Argentina. We waited for customs to arrive on the Chilean side for atleast 40 minutes, crossed the Beagle Channel at dusk (thankfully I had taken dramamine) a rocky ride to say the least. Arrived in Argentina, stamped in and walked to a hostel. We stayed in Ushuaia for too long for doing nothing. Our days consisted of walking around town, cooking dinner and drinking wine. We decided against taking days of buses north and bought a ticket to fly to Mendoza.
We grabbed beers with Dusty that final night to say our farewells before departing on separate journeys.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Puerto Williams and the Dientes Trek

Puerto William declares itself as the Southernmost town in the world. Thus, Josh sent his first postcard for the trip to his Mom from here. It's a sleepy little town of modest means. Directly across from the boat docks we walked into a comfortable self-service hostel. We stayed 2 nights, bought groceries and headed out for the trek.

We thought those first couple days of Torres Del Paine was rough, that was child's play. Yes the sky looked dark before we began the hike, but we weren't about to sit around in Puerto Williams for weeks awaiting the perfect day. Up in the mountains within 20 minutes we would experience warm sunshine, fierce winds strong enough to knock me down, hail, snow, rain, sleet and some serious Elisha tears.

The trail was evident at times marked by rock piles and this wacked French Trailmarking system of red and blue lines. Other times the trail dissapeared and we were left to skirt the side of an eroding mountain with 70 mile/hour winds. Dangerous, scary, not fun When we arrived at a valley that would allow for tent set up we decided to stop and camp. Shortly after we shed our packs a Spanish guy we had met on the boat of misery and who had started a couple hours before us on the trail came running along saying that a gal up the trail a ways had a broken leg. He was running back to get help. Josh prepared a first aid kit in his day pack and quickly set off to see if he could be of any help. Dusty and I continued setting up our tents and made some extra yummy mac & cheese while nearly freezing our fingers off. We got into each of our tents after the food was finished and tried to get warm. Most of my clothes had gotten wet from the sleet, at times I feared that I might in fact freeze to death, but overall had more worry inside me about Josh. I warmed up eventually, but Joshua never came home that night. I kept saying to myself that he must have stayed with the hurt gal, but I was still horribly terrified.

The next morning I called to Dusty, reporting Josh's absence. We readied our day packs to set out and find him. Just as we were lacing up our boots he called over the mountain to me. I don't know if I've ever heard a more beautiful sound. What relief.

Josh gave us the low down, it was a Dutch couple. The gal indeed had a fracture, swollen but not open. He said that had he not been there, the boyfriend of the injured girl wouldn't have had a chance at setting up their tent in the wind. Without the tent they surely would have acquired frostbite at the least of their worries. Thank goodness Josh ventured that way, he truly saved lives that night.

We packed up and headed out, hoping to make another contact with rescue services once we exited the park. Just as we walked into town we saw a Chilean helicopter circling into the mountains. We stopped by the ranger's station to confirm that the helicopter we saw was the fallen gal's relief. Thankfully yes, but let it be said that it took over 24 hours from the time of the incident for her to receive aid. Not acceptable in my opinion, but thankfully she was helped anyhow.

We hung around a couple more days in Puerto Williams while Josh debated if he would or would not attempt the Dientes Trek again. In the end he decided against it. Says he's saving something for him and Dusty to come back to.

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Currently traveling through South America