After getting off of the River Boat up the Amazon we got a taxi to Leticia, Colombia. This is a small town in the Amazon Basin that a lot of jungle trip take off from. We spent only one night here and
caught a flight to Bogota the next day.
We stayed in Mahatu Jungle Hostel, in an upstairs cabana similar to the cabanas that we stayed in during our honeymoon in Nicaragua. The stay was cheap and the owner friendly.
Staying in Leticia only one night, we didn't expect to see jungle wildlife. However we were pleasantly surprised to see some jungle animals that had turned into city inhabitants. Huge flocks of parrots lived in the city trees. You could here them from blocks away, there bright green color was quite beautiful as well. Also there was a small rodent that scurried about the hostel yard, called a Black Agouti (Dasyprocta fuliginosa) a smaller version of the capybara. He was cool to see!
The day in Leticia was hot and humid but the night was quite pleasant in the cabana. In the morning I found keeping cookies in my bag proved to be a horrible idea. Ants infested my daybag, books, journal. I couldn't get rid of them all, some flew to Bogota with us. The worst part is that these hungry ants ate right through some of my undergarments, leaving a string-cheese look. I truly did find ants in my underpants at lunch that day!
Friday, October 30, 2009
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Up the Amazon
We bought a ticket to take a large river boat up the Amazon river for 6.5 days from Manaus to Tabatinga. The boat was very large, it could fit up to 400 people if I remember correctly. The river being the main highway in the amazon was used for transportation of most of their goods. On the lower level of the boat was anything you could want- massive amounts of soda and beer, mattresses, plastic chairs even a pickup truck. At times the boat would stop for 5 or 6 hours to unload what seemed to be an infinite amount of supplies.
Riding this large boat up the center of such a wide river didn't prove to be the jungle experience that you expect when you hear 'amazon'. However, we did sleep in hammocks every night and shower with river water. On a couple of lucky occasions we saw river dolphins, some of which were pink!
There wasn't a lot more happening on the boat besides the occasional stop and unload. We ate the same rice, beans, spagetti and meat for every meal. I got pretty sick for 2 days, which wasn't made any easier with the frequently disgustingly dirty bathrooms. Other than that I was able to read a lot and lay in a hammock.
Riding this large boat up the center of such a wide river didn't prove to be the jungle experience that you expect when you hear 'amazon'. However, we did sleep in hammocks every night and shower with river water. On a couple of lucky occasions we saw river dolphins, some of which were pink!
There wasn't a lot more happening on the boat besides the occasional stop and unload. We ate the same rice, beans, spagetti and meat for every meal. I got pretty sick for 2 days, which wasn't made any easier with the frequently disgustingly dirty bathrooms. Other than that I was able to read a lot and lay in a hammock.
Friday, October 23, 2009
Manaus, Brazil
After the Roriama trek we took a day to start recovering then catched a taxi to cross the border to Brazil. We ended up taking a taxi all the way to the next town in Brazil, Boa Vista because it was cheaper and faster than a bus. Gas in Venezuela is subsidised by the government, something like 1 cent for a liter! This is truly a terrible thing because it encourages lots of driving of monsterous gas hogs, old U.S. cars...unnecessary pollution.
From Boa Vista we eventually caught a night bus to Manaus, Brazil. Got ourselves into an Australian run Hostel and set out to get boat tickets for Tabatinga. We were able to choose between leaving on the boat either the next day or 5 days away. Feeling the thick heat of the city on our backs helped us quickly decide to leave the next day. The town did look interesting enough to stay a few days, but the heat was oppressive.
We purchased our boat tickets, then hammocks and ropes without much hassle. We picked up some snacks from the grocery store and some fruit from the street vendors. We were hoping to take an avocato, but they are as big as 3 at home, and without refridgeration we knew it would go to waste.
The following morning after a fitful nights sleep in the sticky heat we walked the half mile to the boat docks. taking a small boat to the deeper water where our large boat was parked we hopped on and found a decent location for our 3 hammocks. Behind our hammocks we tied our bags together. We smiled at the portuguese speaking neighbors and settled into our hammocks and wait for take off.
From Boa Vista we eventually caught a night bus to Manaus, Brazil. Got ourselves into an Australian run Hostel and set out to get boat tickets for Tabatinga. We were able to choose between leaving on the boat either the next day or 5 days away. Feeling the thick heat of the city on our backs helped us quickly decide to leave the next day. The town did look interesting enough to stay a few days, but the heat was oppressive.
We purchased our boat tickets, then hammocks and ropes without much hassle. We picked up some snacks from the grocery store and some fruit from the street vendors. We were hoping to take an avocato, but they are as big as 3 at home, and without refridgeration we knew it would go to waste.
The following morning after a fitful nights sleep in the sticky heat we walked the half mile to the boat docks. taking a small boat to the deeper water where our large boat was parked we hopped on and found a decent location for our 3 hammocks. Behind our hammocks we tied our bags together. We smiled at the portuguese speaking neighbors and settled into our hammocks and wait for take off.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Roraima
After finishing Angel Falls we hopped on a night bus headed south to Santa Elena, Venezuela. The bus ride stunk horribly of urine. It was nothing short of naseating. I went to the bathroom at one point and understood the smell in a new way, I'll spare you the details.
Once arriving in Santa Elena we got a room and headed to the Brazilian Consulate to get our Brazilian Visa (another thing we probably should have done before we left) At the Consulate they did a fairly impressive job of instilling fear in us of the local police. They said the police would hassle us and take our money if we didn't carry our passports with us at all times. One woman also encouraged us not to take the Amazon, as lots of foreigners get killed there all of the time. We ignored her advice completely.
After that was taken care of we arranged a hiking trip. Around this area there are unique table-like mountains called Tepuy or Tepui's. They have isolated ecosystems with a large variety of carnivorous plants. National park laws only allow people to hike with a guide up these mountains so we arranged a standard 6 day trek with Kamadac, a tour company with good prices across from our hostel.
After a good nights rest the next day we set off to hike Roraima.
DAY 1. Not bad, 12km from the town of Para Tepui to Rio Tek. The bugs here were the real enemy's. The people call these tiny man eaters puri puri's. They have no respect for bug spray so to fend them off you have to where long pants and shirts in the sweltering heat.
DAY 2. A little harder. More uphill this day, 10km or so hiking to the base of the Tepui. Bugs weren't so bad, tired nervous for day 3.
DAY 3. HARD. A very steep hike up the side of the tepui. Thick jungle, loose rocks, aching thighs and gluteus. I wasn't sure that I could make it, by divine miracle I did.
DAY 4. okay. We trekked around the top of the Tepui to take a closer look and the ecosystem up here. We saw tiny black frogs, crystals and tiny carnivorous plants. The top of the tepui was not as lush as I was expecting, it looked like what I expect the moon to look like. Uneven black granite in every direction. Honestly this day I just wanted to stay in the tent and sleep and am annoyed we had to walk around to see the 2 plants, frog and crystal we didn't have to walk that far to see.
DAY 5. HARDEST This day we trekked all of the way down from the top of the tepui to the spot we camped our first night. The downhill was scary and so tough on the legs. I was terrified that we would slide down the side of the Tepui the entire day, the rocks were loose and wet from the rain. My legs would not stop shaking and hurt more than I can ever remember. My ankles were swollen and painful. I took as much Ibuprofen and Excedrin as medically safe...some how we made it with only a few scrapes and 2 swollen ankles.
DAY 6. Lasting Pain. finished of with a 12 km hike to the beginning. A wonderfully rewarding feeling to be done, but good heavens did I hurt...and I hurt for 2 weeks after.
end lesson-get in better shape...but you can do anything you put your mind to.
Once arriving in Santa Elena we got a room and headed to the Brazilian Consulate to get our Brazilian Visa (another thing we probably should have done before we left) At the Consulate they did a fairly impressive job of instilling fear in us of the local police. They said the police would hassle us and take our money if we didn't carry our passports with us at all times. One woman also encouraged us not to take the Amazon, as lots of foreigners get killed there all of the time. We ignored her advice completely.
After that was taken care of we arranged a hiking trip. Around this area there are unique table-like mountains called Tepuy or Tepui's. They have isolated ecosystems with a large variety of carnivorous plants. National park laws only allow people to hike with a guide up these mountains so we arranged a standard 6 day trek with Kamadac, a tour company with good prices across from our hostel.
After a good nights rest the next day we set off to hike Roraima.
DAY 1. Not bad, 12km from the town of Para Tepui to Rio Tek. The bugs here were the real enemy's. The people call these tiny man eaters puri puri's. They have no respect for bug spray so to fend them off you have to where long pants and shirts in the sweltering heat.
DAY 2. A little harder. More uphill this day, 10km or so hiking to the base of the Tepui. Bugs weren't so bad, tired nervous for day 3.
DAY 3. HARD. A very steep hike up the side of the tepui. Thick jungle, loose rocks, aching thighs and gluteus. I wasn't sure that I could make it, by divine miracle I did.
DAY 4. okay. We trekked around the top of the Tepui to take a closer look and the ecosystem up here. We saw tiny black frogs, crystals and tiny carnivorous plants. The top of the tepui was not as lush as I was expecting, it looked like what I expect the moon to look like. Uneven black granite in every direction. Honestly this day I just wanted to stay in the tent and sleep and am annoyed we had to walk around to see the 2 plants, frog and crystal we didn't have to walk that far to see.
DAY 5. HARDEST This day we trekked all of the way down from the top of the tepui to the spot we camped our first night. The downhill was scary and so tough on the legs. I was terrified that we would slide down the side of the Tepui the entire day, the rocks were loose and wet from the rain. My legs would not stop shaking and hurt more than I can ever remember. My ankles were swollen and painful. I took as much Ibuprofen and Excedrin as medically safe...some how we made it with only a few scrapes and 2 swollen ankles.
DAY 6. Lasting Pain. finished of with a 12 km hike to the beginning. A wonderfully rewarding feeling to be done, but good heavens did I hurt...and I hurt for 2 weeks after.
end lesson-get in better shape...but you can do anything you put your mind to.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Angel Falls
From Cuidad Bolivar, Venezuela we were able to arrange a tour to Angel Falls. The tour lasted 3 days. We arrived at the airport early and left our big bags with the tour company. The plane we took into Canaima national park was the tiniest plane I have ever seen, 5 passengers and the pilot. I sat in the front seat next to the pilot. Somehow before takeoff Josh's seatbelt got locked out the little door. We prayed and said our last i love you's just incase. An air vent was next my ear letting the air in so the plane was very loud, but otherthan that we had a fairly smooth ride. Exhillarating.
When we arrived at the drop off point in cainaima we were quicky ushered toward the river boats to head toward the falls. The boats looked like long thin dug out logs with a regular speed boat motor attached. We were told that since it is no longer the rainy season the river would be very low and points and we would need to jump off and push. To see the falls we had to travel upriver for 5 hours! After that trip we did not soon forget how hard those wooden benches were. Anyway the river was low in spots and there were rapids that would have to classify about 3 or so. The guides started shouted at the men to jump out and push when we got stuck. On one terrifying occasion the guys jumped out and not a secound later Dusty lost his footing and slipped. One of the ladies and the end of the boat caught his shirt and was trying to help but actually ended up nearly drowning him by holding him down. He broke away from her unhelpful help and floated downstream. He was able to stop in a calmer pool a little ways down. We picked him up with greatest casualty being the loss of his favorite Tigers Cap.
Eventually we made it to the camping sight for the night, across the river from the falls. Angel Falls was impressive, not having the ammount of water that it does in the rainy season it's tale was a mist before it hit the pool at the bottom. We slept in hammocks beneath necessary mosquito nets. Sleep was sound but too short, the next morning the guide woke us up at 4 am to start hiking to a viewpoint closer to the falls. The hike was shockingly strenuous. The jungle around the falls is very thick and the path toward the falls was a tangle of roots. After 3 hours we made it to a closer viewpoint. The view was impressive, but I would recommend hiking boots.
After ariving back our slave driving guide hurried us through breakfast then ushered us back to the boats. This time the ride was much more enjoyable, except for our bruised butt cheeks. Going downstream it took maybe 3 hours, the rest of the day our slave driver disappeared and i relaxed my blistered feet in a hammock at the basecamp near some other impressive waterfalls.
Day 3 we checked out these glorious waterfalls near our basecamp. We walked right under some and on the top of the ridge where they fell from, wet and slippery at times the loud crashing of the falls was worth the short hike. A quick plane ride back, and that ties up the Angel Falls adventure.
When we arrived at the drop off point in cainaima we were quicky ushered toward the river boats to head toward the falls. The boats looked like long thin dug out logs with a regular speed boat motor attached. We were told that since it is no longer the rainy season the river would be very low and points and we would need to jump off and push. To see the falls we had to travel upriver for 5 hours! After that trip we did not soon forget how hard those wooden benches were. Anyway the river was low in spots and there were rapids that would have to classify about 3 or so. The guides started shouted at the men to jump out and push when we got stuck. On one terrifying occasion the guys jumped out and not a secound later Dusty lost his footing and slipped. One of the ladies and the end of the boat caught his shirt and was trying to help but actually ended up nearly drowning him by holding him down. He broke away from her unhelpful help and floated downstream. He was able to stop in a calmer pool a little ways down. We picked him up with greatest casualty being the loss of his favorite Tigers Cap.
Eventually we made it to the camping sight for the night, across the river from the falls. Angel Falls was impressive, not having the ammount of water that it does in the rainy season it's tale was a mist before it hit the pool at the bottom. We slept in hammocks beneath necessary mosquito nets. Sleep was sound but too short, the next morning the guide woke us up at 4 am to start hiking to a viewpoint closer to the falls. The hike was shockingly strenuous. The jungle around the falls is very thick and the path toward the falls was a tangle of roots. After 3 hours we made it to a closer viewpoint. The view was impressive, but I would recommend hiking boots.
After ariving back our slave driving guide hurried us through breakfast then ushered us back to the boats. This time the ride was much more enjoyable, except for our bruised butt cheeks. Going downstream it took maybe 3 hours, the rest of the day our slave driver disappeared and i relaxed my blistered feet in a hammock at the basecamp near some other impressive waterfalls.
Day 3 we checked out these glorious waterfalls near our basecamp. We walked right under some and on the top of the ridge where they fell from, wet and slippery at times the loud crashing of the falls was worth the short hike. A quick plane ride back, and that ties up the Angel Falls adventure.
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Excitement for the Falls!
We have some big adventures planned here in the very near future. Tomorrow we´re taking a plane to Canima and the following day a boat & hike combination to Angel Falls, the worlds highest waterfall! We get to camp directly across from the falls that night!
The downside is the jungle mosquitos are terrible. I´ve seen 3 people today so far point and stare at my legs full of chickenpox like marks from these blasted bugs. I feel like a lepar walking around here, not immune to these bugs like the natives. Hopefully we´ll all end up malaria free and with great memories...it will well be worth enduring a little time as the venezuelan eyesore;)
The downside is the jungle mosquitos are terrible. I´ve seen 3 people today so far point and stare at my legs full of chickenpox like marks from these blasted bugs. I feel like a lepar walking around here, not immune to these bugs like the natives. Hopefully we´ll all end up malaria free and with great memories...it will well be worth enduring a little time as the venezuelan eyesore;)
Beach
Josh and I split from Dusty for a couple days as he wanted to go to Caracas and we wanted to hit another beach before heading down the Angel Falls. We headed to Puerta La Cruz and then took a 45min. bus to a small fishing town called Santa Fe. We stayed in a Posada directly on the beach overlooking a small bay part of Mochima National Park. Despite the plethora of trash strewn about the beach and decorating the water the landscape was breathtaking. The water ranged from light aqua blue to a deep emerald green. Mountains covered in desert grass and cacti arose from the edges of the water. Pelicans flooded the beaches, somewhat like seaguls but more magical to a Midwesterner!
On the third day we took a boat trip to a smaller island that we had heard was more tranquil and beautiful than the beach we were staying on. On the boat trip over we encountered schools of dolphins! So many of them altogether, jumping in that crescent moon shape that I remeber flipper doing. It was beautiful and amazing, quite a suprise!
Before arriving to the island we snorkeled of the side of a different mountain-island. The coral was beautiful, colors of blue, purples, pinks, reds and shades of white. We then ran into a school of minnows, they were making a wall and the other wall was a school of larger fish. I felt like Ariel, the little mermade, or nemo. The larger fish would lunge toward the minnows, then hundreds of minnows would simultaneously turn away. We were right in the middle of the action. Perhaps the minnows were using us as a shield. Eitherway it was quite amazing, I felt like I was filming for the Discovery Channel- the life of fish series.
Once arriving at the Island beach we quickly decided that it was indeed the most beautiful beach we´ve been to. Crystal clear water, soft white sand, mountains jutting out of the water on either side of the beach...gorgeous.
We took a sunset tour on the boat back to our posada and again saw schools of dolphins circling up sardines for dinner! I am such a lucky girl!
On the third day we took a boat trip to a smaller island that we had heard was more tranquil and beautiful than the beach we were staying on. On the boat trip over we encountered schools of dolphins! So many of them altogether, jumping in that crescent moon shape that I remeber flipper doing. It was beautiful and amazing, quite a suprise!
Before arriving to the island we snorkeled of the side of a different mountain-island. The coral was beautiful, colors of blue, purples, pinks, reds and shades of white. We then ran into a school of minnows, they were making a wall and the other wall was a school of larger fish. I felt like Ariel, the little mermade, or nemo. The larger fish would lunge toward the minnows, then hundreds of minnows would simultaneously turn away. We were right in the middle of the action. Perhaps the minnows were using us as a shield. Eitherway it was quite amazing, I felt like I was filming for the Discovery Channel- the life of fish series.
Once arriving at the Island beach we quickly decided that it was indeed the most beautiful beach we´ve been to. Crystal clear water, soft white sand, mountains jutting out of the water on either side of the beach...gorgeous.
We took a sunset tour on the boat back to our posada and again saw schools of dolphins circling up sardines for dinner! I am such a lucky girl!
Monday, October 5, 2009
Pictures!
Coro, Venezuela
Taganga, Colombia Totuma, Colombia Market, Colombia
Tayrona Nat´l Park, Colombia
Tayrona Nat´l Park, Colombia
Playa Blanca, Colombia
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