From Puerto Williams we bought a boat ticket to Ushuaia Argentina. That 'boat' ticket consited of a 1.5 hour car ride and a 15 minute raft ride across the Beagle Channel to Argentina. We waited for customs to arrive on the Chilean side for atleast 40 minutes, crossed the Beagle Channel at dusk (thankfully I had taken dramamine) a rocky ride to say the least. Arrived in Argentina, stamped in and walked to a hostel. We stayed in Ushuaia for too long for doing nothing. Our days consisted of walking around town, cooking dinner and drinking wine. We decided against taking days of buses north and bought a ticket to fly to Mendoza.
We grabbed beers with Dusty that final night to say our farewells before departing on separate journeys.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Monday, March 1, 2010
Puerto Williams and the Dientes Trek
Puerto William declares itself as the Southernmost town in the world. Thus, Josh sent his first postcard for the trip to his Mom from here. It's a sleepy little town of modest means. Directly across from the boat docks we walked into a comfortable self-service hostel. We stayed 2 nights, bought groceries and headed out for the trek.
We thought those first couple days of Torres Del Paine was rough, that was child's play. Yes the sky looked dark before we began the hike, but we weren't about to sit around in Puerto Williams for weeks awaiting the perfect day. Up in the mountains within 20 minutes we would experience warm sunshine, fierce winds strong enough to knock me down, hail, snow, rain, sleet and some serious Elisha tears.
The trail was evident at times marked by rock piles and this wacked French Trailmarking system of red and blue lines. Other times the trail dissapeared and we were left to skirt the side of an eroding mountain with 70 mile/hour winds. Dangerous, scary, not fun When we arrived at a valley that would allow for tent set up we decided to stop and camp. Shortly after we shed our packs a Spanish guy we had met on the boat of misery and who had started a couple hours before us on the trail came running along saying that a gal up the trail a ways had a broken leg. He was running back to get help. Josh prepared a first aid kit in his day pack and quickly set off to see if he could be of any help. Dusty and I continued setting up our tents and made some extra yummy mac & cheese while nearly freezing our fingers off. We got into each of our tents after the food was finished and tried to get warm. Most of my clothes had gotten wet from the sleet, at times I feared that I might in fact freeze to death, but overall had more worry inside me about Josh. I warmed up eventually, but Joshua never came home that night. I kept saying to myself that he must have stayed with the hurt gal, but I was still horribly terrified.
The next morning I called to Dusty, reporting Josh's absence. We readied our day packs to set out and find him. Just as we were lacing up our boots he called over the mountain to me. I don't know if I've ever heard a more beautiful sound. What relief.
Josh gave us the low down, it was a Dutch couple. The gal indeed had a fracture, swollen but not open. He said that had he not been there, the boyfriend of the injured girl wouldn't have had a chance at setting up their tent in the wind. Without the tent they surely would have acquired frostbite at the least of their worries. Thank goodness Josh ventured that way, he truly saved lives that night.
We packed up and headed out, hoping to make another contact with rescue services once we exited the park. Just as we walked into town we saw a Chilean helicopter circling into the mountains. We stopped by the ranger's station to confirm that the helicopter we saw was the fallen gal's relief. Thankfully yes, but let it be said that it took over 24 hours from the time of the incident for her to receive aid. Not acceptable in my opinion, but thankfully she was helped anyhow.
We hung around a couple more days in Puerto Williams while Josh debated if he would or would not attempt the Dientes Trek again. In the end he decided against it. Says he's saving something for him and Dusty to come back to.
We thought those first couple days of Torres Del Paine was rough, that was child's play. Yes the sky looked dark before we began the hike, but we weren't about to sit around in Puerto Williams for weeks awaiting the perfect day. Up in the mountains within 20 minutes we would experience warm sunshine, fierce winds strong enough to knock me down, hail, snow, rain, sleet and some serious Elisha tears.
The trail was evident at times marked by rock piles and this wacked French Trailmarking system of red and blue lines. Other times the trail dissapeared and we were left to skirt the side of an eroding mountain with 70 mile/hour winds. Dangerous, scary, not fun When we arrived at a valley that would allow for tent set up we decided to stop and camp. Shortly after we shed our packs a Spanish guy we had met on the boat of misery and who had started a couple hours before us on the trail came running along saying that a gal up the trail a ways had a broken leg. He was running back to get help. Josh prepared a first aid kit in his day pack and quickly set off to see if he could be of any help. Dusty and I continued setting up our tents and made some extra yummy mac & cheese while nearly freezing our fingers off. We got into each of our tents after the food was finished and tried to get warm. Most of my clothes had gotten wet from the sleet, at times I feared that I might in fact freeze to death, but overall had more worry inside me about Josh. I warmed up eventually, but Joshua never came home that night. I kept saying to myself that he must have stayed with the hurt gal, but I was still horribly terrified.
The next morning I called to Dusty, reporting Josh's absence. We readied our day packs to set out and find him. Just as we were lacing up our boots he called over the mountain to me. I don't know if I've ever heard a more beautiful sound. What relief.
Josh gave us the low down, it was a Dutch couple. The gal indeed had a fracture, swollen but not open. He said that had he not been there, the boyfriend of the injured girl wouldn't have had a chance at setting up their tent in the wind. Without the tent they surely would have acquired frostbite at the least of their worries. Thank goodness Josh ventured that way, he truly saved lives that night.
We packed up and headed out, hoping to make another contact with rescue services once we exited the park. Just as we walked into town we saw a Chilean helicopter circling into the mountains. We stopped by the ranger's station to confirm that the helicopter we saw was the fallen gal's relief. Thankfully yes, but let it be said that it took over 24 hours from the time of the incident for her to receive aid. Not acceptable in my opinion, but thankfully she was helped anyhow.
We hung around a couple more days in Puerto Williams while Josh debated if he would or would not attempt the Dientes Trek again. In the end he decided against it. Says he's saving something for him and Dusty to come back to.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Boat to Puerto Williams
We were expecting something nicer to say the least. We bought the cheapest tickets for the Navimag ride to Puerto Natales and were pleasantly surpised at the comfortable common areas, rooms cleanliness of the ship and delicious food provided. This boat was a rude awakening. For over a day and a half we had a seat smaller than standard airplane seats. The seats were covered with a vinyl that was dirty and cracked. Within the cracks lived mountains of crumbs. The woolly blankets provided surely weren't, at least 20 black hairs decorated mine. Sleeping was difficult. An old woman behind us that resembled an overweight pig more than she did a person took up two seats and snored loud enough for everyone to listen all night and even at times during the day.
As far as the food served goes, if you like butter & bologna sandwiches for breakfast and spaghetti noodles with beans for lunch then it's your kind of ship.
And for the scenery- the reason we just HAD to take this overpriced ride. We saw a 3 foot blue area that was supposedly the back of a whale once. And may I mention nearly the entire journey it rained or was extremely cold on the top standing deck (the only place to view the water from). So to sum it up, no I did not care for that ride, and I'm sure not happy we payed over $300 to do it.
As far as the food served goes, if you like butter & bologna sandwiches for breakfast and spaghetti noodles with beans for lunch then it's your kind of ship.
And for the scenery- the reason we just HAD to take this overpriced ride. We saw a 3 foot blue area that was supposedly the back of a whale once. And may I mention nearly the entire journey it rained or was extremely cold on the top standing deck (the only place to view the water from). So to sum it up, no I did not care for that ride, and I'm sure not happy we payed over $300 to do it.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Punta Arenas
After getting back from the trail we had showers and some tasty pizza and microbrew beers at a local pizza joint in Puerto Natales. We bought tickets to Punta Arenas for the next morning. In Punta Arenas the boys decided that they just had to take another boat further south the the town of Puerto Williams. The boat only left certain days, so we ended up killing a lot of time in Punta Arenas. Fortunately we had a clean room with wi-fi and cable TV. I've gotten to just love "The Big Bang Theory" when we get a chance to watch it.
The main event in Punta Arenas is going to see the enormous Magellanic Penguin Colony. Unfortunately we bought the tickets to Isla Magdalena for a rainy day. The penguins didn't seem to mind the rain any though, they were just as active: waddling, diving, fishing and making a surprisingly loud honk. We spent an hour on the island just watching, photographing and video taping these awkward little creatures. I do have to admit that the air was not that fresh. There was a strongly unpleasant stench of penguin poo I suppose. The excursion was worth the money though, we saw more penguins than I'd ever thought I'd see in my lifetime.
The main event in Punta Arenas is going to see the enormous Magellanic Penguin Colony. Unfortunately we bought the tickets to Isla Magdalena for a rainy day. The penguins didn't seem to mind the rain any though, they were just as active: waddling, diving, fishing and making a surprisingly loud honk. We spent an hour on the island just watching, photographing and video taping these awkward little creatures. I do have to admit that the air was not that fresh. There was a strongly unpleasant stench of penguin poo I suppose. The excursion was worth the money though, we saw more penguins than I'd ever thought I'd see in my lifetime.
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Torres Del Paine- days 3-9
When we woke the third morning the sun was lightly poking out. Unsure how to handle a beautiful day we layered in all our usual gear and packed up. Shortly after climbing the first leg of the W we had to strip down a few layers. The sun kept shining, what a beautiful day. Michael brought a very positive addition to our group by always having chocolate during the dreary parts of the hike. We didn't even need the chocolate on day three. The guys took more pictures the first 20 minutes of our hike than they had the previous two days.
The next few days while Michael was with us we saw most of the major sights, with omission of glacier grey. We spent a night at the horns campsite where mice got into Dusty and Mike's food bags. We saw a cute little owl- probably waiting for those mice that came later in the night. The guys hiked up the French Valley while I read by the raging river. We cooked pasta with red sauce or rice with tuna every night, but usually bought a bottle of wine from the refugio for after-wards. On Michael's last night we splurged on supper at the refugio, a nice change from the usual.
Sadly the next morning, he left on the boat and then back to Puerto Natales as his plane departed the following day. He left us a lovely chocolate bar in my pack though, always the sneakily generous friend. Thank you Michael!
Dusty headed off early with a French gal we had met to hike to the Glacier Gray campsite. After we said our goodbye to Mike we too set off that way. The hike was nice with some beautiful flowers in the valley and condor sightings. Glacier Gray was neat, but of course took a second seat compared to Perito Moreno in Calafate, Argentina. We spent one night at Glacier Gray then headed back to the camp where we departed from Michael.
At this point the plan was to take the boat back to Puerto Natales, However plans changed and Josh and Dusty really wanted to re-hike the W. I pitched a bit of a fit, but got over it and went along with the hike. Day nine we were planning again on hiking up to the towers to see the classic postcard picture, however again it was raining. We hopped on the 2pm bus to Puerto Natales later that night.
The next few days while Michael was with us we saw most of the major sights, with omission of glacier grey. We spent a night at the horns campsite where mice got into Dusty and Mike's food bags. We saw a cute little owl- probably waiting for those mice that came later in the night. The guys hiked up the French Valley while I read by the raging river. We cooked pasta with red sauce or rice with tuna every night, but usually bought a bottle of wine from the refugio for after-wards. On Michael's last night we splurged on supper at the refugio, a nice change from the usual.
Sadly the next morning, he left on the boat and then back to Puerto Natales as his plane departed the following day. He left us a lovely chocolate bar in my pack though, always the sneakily generous friend. Thank you Michael!
Dusty headed off early with a French gal we had met to hike to the Glacier Gray campsite. After we said our goodbye to Mike we too set off that way. The hike was nice with some beautiful flowers in the valley and condor sightings. Glacier Gray was neat, but of course took a second seat compared to Perito Moreno in Calafate, Argentina. We spent one night at Glacier Gray then headed back to the camp where we departed from Michael.
At this point the plan was to take the boat back to Puerto Natales, However plans changed and Josh and Dusty really wanted to re-hike the W. I pitched a bit of a fit, but got over it and went along with the hike. Day nine we were planning again on hiking up to the towers to see the classic postcard picture, however again it was raining. We hopped on the 2pm bus to Puerto Natales later that night.
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Torres Del Paine- first two days of misery
Let me be the first to admit that the hike didn't start of as splendidly as planned. It was drizzling outside during our final breakfast at Nancy's Place in Puerto Natales. We were hoping it'd pass over by the time we reached the park. The first day the plan was to hike up to a view point to see the infamous Torres or Towers. We continued with our plan until halfway when we made it to a refugio for lunch.
It took us about 2 hours to get the chill out of our bones from the sideways rain and then we stayed and played cards and drank tea for another hour hoping the rain would pass. Never did it pass. Making decisions were tough for our group of four (Joshua, Dustin, Michael and I). Before leaving the refugio we decided to buck it up and head up to the viewpoint where our reserved campsite awaited, also the one next to the refugio here was flooded. While putting on boots and nearly every layer we owned outside the refugio Michael asked a few passerby's what the weather was like up higher. They shook their heads with disgust and said not to bother, it was snowing!
Okay trekking up was out, now we had to decide between staying in the swampy camp to our right or heading back down. 10 minutes passed and somehow we came to the decision to descend. We made it 300 meters when doubt crept in. The boys weren't sure again, should we descend, only to hike upward for 5 hours before light in the morning in order to catch sunrise at the towers? Well long story short, we went down and found camp where we started.
The next day the weather was much the same. We were ambitious and had intentions to go ahead and complete the circuit. We donned our large packs and decided to skip the mirador for now, as the weather would not permit viewing anyhow and began the first leg of the mighty circuit. Boy was this day hell. Muddy paths, tromping through mud rivers at times it seemed. Winds fierce and never halting, rain so strong it whipped through the 'waterproof' raingear. I broke down to Josh saying, I just do not want to do this, I have absolutely no desire to trudge through a living hell on my vacation. He snapped at this point, he was having no swaying from the plan two days in a row. I kept on going, after slipping so many times in the mud, I was afraid I'd break a leg on the trail alone if I turned back. Michael, ever positive, tried to cheer me with some wisdom about 'it's all perspective' and how good life is. I told him, that I'd rather be dead at this point.
At lunch we sat and talked. Josh changed his mind and announced that maybe we should head back. Before that Dusty gave the option of him and I heading back, while the power horses kept on. With our running noses freezing and the wind howling in our ears we all decided to head back to our original campsite. We thought that at least in the time Michael was here we should see some sites, and the W as opposed to the circuit would provide those grander viewpoints. With new energy we got back up and trudged through the mud with a little less disgust this time.
After two days of carrying our full packs for day hikes we decided the next day we might try to camp in a new location, change things up a bit. At the same time we were getting quite used to the comforts of this main lodge. Warm heater, flushing toilets, beer, wine, soda. Without that heater to dry our socks and semi-dry our boots the experience would have been infinitely tougher. Of course I was already strongly considering taking the bus back to Puerto Natales and hanging out while the boys completed this unfriendly adventure. I decided to tough it out, knowing I'd just be disappointed in myself if I gave up now.
It took us about 2 hours to get the chill out of our bones from the sideways rain and then we stayed and played cards and drank tea for another hour hoping the rain would pass. Never did it pass. Making decisions were tough for our group of four (Joshua, Dustin, Michael and I). Before leaving the refugio we decided to buck it up and head up to the viewpoint where our reserved campsite awaited, also the one next to the refugio here was flooded. While putting on boots and nearly every layer we owned outside the refugio Michael asked a few passerby's what the weather was like up higher. They shook their heads with disgust and said not to bother, it was snowing!
Okay trekking up was out, now we had to decide between staying in the swampy camp to our right or heading back down. 10 minutes passed and somehow we came to the decision to descend. We made it 300 meters when doubt crept in. The boys weren't sure again, should we descend, only to hike upward for 5 hours before light in the morning in order to catch sunrise at the towers? Well long story short, we went down and found camp where we started.
The next day the weather was much the same. We were ambitious and had intentions to go ahead and complete the circuit. We donned our large packs and decided to skip the mirador for now, as the weather would not permit viewing anyhow and began the first leg of the mighty circuit. Boy was this day hell. Muddy paths, tromping through mud rivers at times it seemed. Winds fierce and never halting, rain so strong it whipped through the 'waterproof' raingear. I broke down to Josh saying, I just do not want to do this, I have absolutely no desire to trudge through a living hell on my vacation. He snapped at this point, he was having no swaying from the plan two days in a row. I kept on going, after slipping so many times in the mud, I was afraid I'd break a leg on the trail alone if I turned back. Michael, ever positive, tried to cheer me with some wisdom about 'it's all perspective' and how good life is. I told him, that I'd rather be dead at this point.
At lunch we sat and talked. Josh changed his mind and announced that maybe we should head back. Before that Dusty gave the option of him and I heading back, while the power horses kept on. With our running noses freezing and the wind howling in our ears we all decided to head back to our original campsite. We thought that at least in the time Michael was here we should see some sites, and the W as opposed to the circuit would provide those grander viewpoints. With new energy we got back up and trudged through the mud with a little less disgust this time.
After two days of carrying our full packs for day hikes we decided the next day we might try to camp in a new location, change things up a bit. At the same time we were getting quite used to the comforts of this main lodge. Warm heater, flushing toilets, beer, wine, soda. Without that heater to dry our socks and semi-dry our boots the experience would have been infinitely tougher. Of course I was already strongly considering taking the bus back to Puerto Natales and hanging out while the boys completed this unfriendly adventure. I decided to tough it out, knowing I'd just be disappointed in myself if I gave up now.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Puerto Natales, Michael Arrives
We crossed back into the Chile the day our dear friend Michael was to arrive all the way from the States. I met Michael while he was in his final year of residency at the children's hospital. For this vacation he only had a week to work with, we were sure he wouldn't fly to the end of the world to meet up with us. We were wrong, this crazy doc flew into Punta Arenas to hike Torres Del Paine with us.
We met him coming off the bus in Puerto Natales, got him checked into Nancy's Place, our hostel, and went for a bite to eat at the local Baguales Brewery. He hadn't slept much, but wasn't going to miss a beat. We signed up for the all day tour of Torres Del Paine for the following day to get an overview of the park before embarking on the big hike.
The tour was fun. We stopped at the entrawling cave of the Milodon. According to the tour guide the Milodon was a prehistoric relative to the armadillo with fish bones, might have gotten something lost in translation there. After that exciting viewing, we headed to the park, after a quick pitstop at an overpriced touristy cafe of course. The park was beautiful that day, the sun shone brilliantly. Michael set up his tripod and took some good photos, Josh took some great ones with our camera as well. Of course, he wants a bigger and better camera even more now though...thanks Mike. We saw the Torres, the Horns, Salto Grande(waterfall), and an Iceberg maybe a shadow of Glacier Gray. The wind was ferocious and scary. Even scarier was the fact that we were starting the 9 day loop of the circuit the next day...with winds that fierce, how?...that was just the beginning.
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