Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Torres Del Paine- first two days of misery

Let me be the first to admit that the hike didn't start of as splendidly as planned. It was drizzling outside during our final breakfast at Nancy's Place in Puerto Natales. We were hoping it'd pass over by the time we reached the park. The first day the plan was to hike up to a view point to see the infamous Torres or Towers. We continued with our plan until halfway when we made it to a refugio for lunch.

It took us about 2 hours to get the chill out of our bones from the sideways rain and then we stayed and played cards and drank tea for another hour hoping the rain would pass. Never did it pass. Making decisions were tough for our group of four (Joshua, Dustin, Michael and I). Before leaving the refugio we decided to buck it up and head up to the viewpoint where our reserved campsite awaited, also the one next to the refugio here was flooded. While putting on boots and nearly every layer we owned outside the refugio Michael asked a few passerby's what the weather was like up higher. They shook their heads with disgust and said not to bother, it was snowing!

Okay trekking up was out, now we had to decide between staying in the swampy camp to our right or heading back down. 10 minutes passed and somehow we came to the decision to descend. We made it 300 meters when doubt crept in. The boys weren't sure again, should we descend, only to hike upward for 5 hours before light in the morning in order to catch sunrise at the towers? Well long story short, we went down and found camp where we started.

The next day the weather was much the same. We were ambitious and had intentions to go ahead and complete the circuit. We donned our large packs and decided to skip the mirador for now, as the weather would not permit viewing anyhow and began the first leg of the mighty circuit. Boy was this day hell. Muddy paths, tromping through mud rivers at times it seemed. Winds fierce and never halting, rain so strong it whipped through the 'waterproof' raingear. I broke down to Josh saying, I just do not want to do this, I have absolutely no desire to trudge through a living hell on my vacation. He snapped at this point, he was having no swaying from the plan two days in a row. I kept on going, after slipping so many times in the mud, I was afraid I'd break a leg on the trail alone if I turned back. Michael, ever positive, tried to cheer me with some wisdom about 'it's all perspective' and how good life is. I told him, that I'd rather be dead at this point.

At lunch we sat and talked. Josh changed his mind and announced that maybe we should head back. Before that Dusty gave the option of him and I heading back, while the power horses kept on. With our running noses freezing and the wind howling in our ears we all decided to head back to our original campsite. We thought that at least in the time Michael was here we should see some sites, and the W as opposed to the circuit would provide those grander viewpoints. With new energy we got back up and trudged through the mud with a little less disgust this time.

After two days of carrying our full packs for day hikes we decided the next day we might try to camp in a new location, change things up a bit. At the same time we were getting quite used to the comforts of this main lodge. Warm heater, flushing toilets, beer, wine, soda. Without that heater to dry our socks and semi-dry our boots the experience would have been infinitely tougher. Of course I was already strongly considering taking the bus back to Puerto Natales and hanging out while the boys completed this unfriendly adventure. I decided to tough it out, knowing I'd just be disappointed in myself if I gave up now.

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Currently traveling through South America